PLATINUM is one of the rarest metals on earth. It cost twice as much as gold by weight, weighs 1.75 times gold and is more difficult to manufacture than gold. This makes Platinum jewelry an average of Three to Four times more costly than 14k gold jewelry.
Commercial Jewelers→Platinum/Iridium 90/10 is the Platinum alloy most used by commercial jewelry mass manufacturers. It is made of 90% Platinum and 10% Iridium. Commercial jewelry manufactures like Pt/Ir 90/10 because it is very white, soft for gem setting, and pliable for bending, making it less labor intensive. This Platinum alloy saves manufacturing costs...but at the expense of quality and long-term durability. Pt/Ir 90/10 scratches deeper and dulls faster than other more expensive and labor intensive platinum alloys. Because it is very pliable, Pt/Ir 90/10 rings change shape very easily on ones finger causing gems to loosen and possibly fall out over a short period of time. Pt/Ir 90/10 also does not cast as well as other alloys leaving a ring with microscopic porosity and metal granulation which causes cracking over time.
Our Standards→Platinum/Ruthenium 95/5 is our preferred Platinum alloy. We craft most Platinum jewelry using Pt/RU 95/5*. This alloy is 95% platinum and 5% Ruthenium making it more expensive than the standard commercial 90% Platinum jewelry. It also takes more time to finish and polish, adding labor cost to the final product. We use Pt/Ru 95/5 because it is not as soft or pliable as commercial platinum and therefore it wears better, shines longer and does not bend, warp or scratch as easily as Pt/Ir 90/10. We believe a little more patience and expense is worth the long-term results.
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J. West Jewelry Designs Independent Custom Jewelry Designer Since 1999 8465 KEYSTONE CROSSING, Suite 220, INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46240